I have loved Burda 7494 ever since I saw the many beautiful versions from Julia Bobbin and finally sewed up two in quick succession this week. This first version is in a simple cotton poplin and I used a 3/4 circle skirt.
The bodice fit on this dress is wonderful, with a simple adjustment for small upper chest/back and shoulders I got an excellent fit. I read a few reviews mentioning excess fabric in the upper front and back and so I did a slash and overlap adjustment without doing a muslin, which worked out perfectly. I can be confident with this kind of adjustment as I do it so often. The adjustment I did is explained beautifully here, and I did this for both the front and back pieces, overlapping about 3/8″ or 1 cm for a total adjustment of 2 cm/just under an inch pinched out front and back. I also did a forward shoulder adjustment of 3/8″ or 1 cm, which is also my usual amount.
The bodice is fully lined and I added some pockets.
I really like the 3/4 circle skirt. I used a formula from the book “Sew Many Dresses, Sew Little Time” (affiliate link so I can buy more sewing books) by Tanya Whelan. She uses a really easy technique using a folded piece of paper to work out the correct angle for the skirt. I actually really like this book, it has a very good section on manipulating darts that I really enjoyed, although I can’t really comment on it completely as I haven’t made anything from it yet (the proof is in the sewing). This dress is actually very much like the cover image of her book.
The fabric is a cotton poplin fabric from the Spots and Stripes collection from Spotlight. The zipper is a hand picked lapped zip, because I love how invisible it looks and my preferred method for a standard zip. I sew the right side by machine and then the left side with the lap by hand.
Now just some final housekeeping: A couple of months ago I spat the dummy about the problem with comment syncing between blogger and disqus and moved my site over to wordpress. I have used wordpress for a while in a work related context and while I loved the maintenance free aspect of blogger, wordpress does offer a more robust backend with greater functionality. I ended up going with a self hosted domain as that was the only way I could keep the “sewhopeful” name. (I am not really that enthused about the name itself, but I’ve been blogging under that banner for a few years, that is what I am known as in the online sewing community and really couldn’t think of anything else that inspired me more so I just kept it.) You may notice that the domain name has changed from sewhopefull.blogspot.com.au to sewhopeful.com.au, and the general layout has changed. Other than that, everything should all still be as it was, so if you notice anything amiss I would greatfully appreciate you letting me know.