Emery Dress with Circle Skirt

This dress is three patterns mish-mashed together to make (for me) the perfect dress.  The fabric is possibly my most favourite print ever, it is an Amy Butler print, the Love Bliss Bouquet in Teal, from Fabric.com.

As this is a medium weight quilting cotton, with minimal drape, I knew I had to make something that worked with those properties and not against it.  Quilting cotton works best with a pattern with a fair amount of structure so a basic fit and flare dress with a fitted bodice and a flared skirt work well in my experience.  As you probably know from previous posts, I have also used quilting cottons successfully for pencil skirts (here and here for example), but they really benefit from a silk organza underlining.

The bodice is the Emery dress.  It was on sale and I purchased the pdf version to see what all the fuss was about.  It is a nice, well drafted bodice for sure, and fits nicely.  I still needed to do a significant sway back adjustment and my standard forward shoulder adjustment.  I wanted something different for the neckline so I traced off the neckline from Gerties New Book for Better Sewing Sultry Sheath, which has a lovely sweetheart shape. The sleeves are also from the Emery but I traced off one size larger and then gathered the extra sleeve cap ease to make little puff sleeves.  The skirt is Vogue 8648, as I had it in the right size, but it is just a full circle skirt.  It is so easy to draft your own, just use this or this to work out your radius and you are good to go.  I added in my own pockets.

The pockets are french seamed which is my favourite method now for doing them, it gives such a clean neat finish inside.  A good tutorial for that is here or here.

The bodice is lined with cotton silk, I ended up hand sewing it around the armscye rather than serging it all together as I prefer how that looks too.  The skirt is unlined as it is not see-through at all, although I still wear a half-slip with it in case the wind blows everything up.

The sleeve hems are hand sewn with an invisible stitch but the skirt hem is machine sewn, I was over the handsewing and it is very hard to see on this fabric anyway.