Lace Jacket – Converting a shawl collar to a notched collar

Two photos showing different views of Kwik Sew 3334 with a notched collar

I made up Kwik Sew 3334 again,  this time in a really nice navy lace from Spotlight, which I also managed to sew the wrong side out (that’s what happens when making the “which side is the right side” decision at 10 pm at night in poor lighting).

Kwik Sew 3334 with notch collar

I wanted to try something different from the shawl collar that comes with this pattern, mainly because of the seamline that falls right at the roll line.  It just doesn’t have the same fall/hang as a proper notched collar, even though of course the upside is it is much easier to sew as in this pattern it’s attached like a peter pan collar.

So I decided to have a go at converting the pattern to one with a traditional notched collar.  As I was sewing with lace with a fair amount of body I decided not to underline or interface.  I have an old Review lace jacket that I have worn for years that is just the fashion fabric so I was confident it would be ok.

Kwik Sew 3334 Collar Variation

Kwik Sew 3334.  This is the 4th time I’ve made this up.

Fabric: A navy blue lace with no stretch.

Notions: Buttons.

Alterations:  Modified the collar from a shawl collar to a notched collar.  My list of links that were useful in this process are:

Threads article on How to Sew a Notched Collar.
The great one from Pattern Scissors Cloth.
Then I used an old vintage pattern I already had as a guide to modify my pattern pieces and hoped for the best.

Extra Techniques: Working out what is the right side/wrong side of the fabric.  This discussion on Burdastyle was very useful as it showed the common misconception (which is the one I had) about the pinhole direction in the selvage. Basically, the right side is the one with the rough holes (the pinpricks pointing OUT) not the other way round. Smooth pinpricks = wrong side, bumpy pinpricks = right side.

Other Notes on the Pattern: It has been a rather interesting exercise to make up the same pattern in so many wildly different fabric types.  Anything to say about the pattern I’ve already said here.  Its a remarkably practical jacket and I’ve worn it rather a lot since I made it – both “dressy” and also with jeans.

I have so many plans for sewing at the moment I am almost beside myself as what to start first.  In no particular order:

The Pauline Alice Ninot Jacket.
A pencil skirt to go with the jacket.
A lady skater dress long sleeve.
A modified Burdastyle Lydia long sleeve.
And of course, another Jackie Coat as part of the upcoming sew-along with Velosewer in July.

Edited for grammar and punctuation 2019.