BCN Unique Cassock Coat

This coat is the BCN Unique Cassock Coat by Paco Peralta. It’s a wonderful pattern and I am  so proud of the finished coat.

I first stumbled across this pattern through a wonderful sewing blogger Tany from Couture et Tricot, and swiftly went down the rabbit hole searching for all I could discover about Paco Peralta.  His website is here and he sells his amazing hand drawn patterns on Etsy here .  Tany gives an excellent introduction to BCN Unique Pattens here.

I used a heavy weight pink linen discovered at The Fabric Cave.   If you haven’t already heard of this place, it is a unique charity in Sydney where unwanted stash fabric is donated to be resold at bargain prices and support the very worthwhile cause.  I went to make a donation of fabric and came home with 2.7 metres of this linen.  It was only 115cm wide and I just squeezed my pattern pieces on, with scraps to spare.  To make everything fit I shortened the coat by 10cm/4″ so it sits just above my knee.

This pattern does not come with any instructions, so I just referred to the construction posts by Tany.  The interfacing map was especially useful, thank you so much Tany.

After making a muslin, my alterations were:

  • Forward shoulder adjustment 1cm/3/8″  and
  • Took shoulders in 1.5cm/5/8″.  These are both my typical usual adjustments.
  • Shortened at waist 1.5cm/5/8″
  • Shortened at hem 10cm/4″ to bring to just above knee length
  • Shortened sleeve 1cm/3/8″

For reference I am 5’4″ or 163cm.

I have never had a sleeve set so beautifully.  The sleeve head is both interfaced as per the interfacing map, see above) and also has a flannel sleeve head.

 

I bagged the lining fully by machine, referring to my own notes here.

The location of the in seam pockets in the front princess seam are just perfect. The lining is just a standard acetate lining that I had in stash.

This pattern is so beautifully drafted and came together so well, it was well worth the investment.  It was such a thrill to work with a pattern that had been drafted by someone with many years of skill and experience, it really showed in every line and seam.

  • You did an outstanding job, and I LOVE your interpretation of Paco’s Cassock coat pattern! The fit is perfect and the execution is flawless! Thank you for referring to my blog, I’m so happy that my articles have ignited and inspired the making of such a beautiful garment! Hugs from Portugal!

    • Thank you very much Tany. The perfect fit is really mostly due to Paco’s amazing ability to draft for the female form so beautifully, and as I have never worked with a pattern like his before I was determined to do it justice. My fitting adjustments were so minor, I’ve never had anything fit so well in the back before without needing major adjustments. Your blog is wonderful and inspires me constantly. xx

  • Sew, Jean Margaret

    This is a very elegant coat, fitted to perfection and impeccably sewn. Beautiful work!

    • Thank you very much. I worked hard on this one, I really wanted to do it justice and it turned out just as I hoped. Phew.

  • Kendra C

    The fit is perfect and the color is beautiful on you!!

    • Thank you Kendra. I owe most of the beautiful fit to the perfectly drafted pattern, I only needed to tweak it in a small way and I don’t think I’ve ever had such a lovely fit across the back before.

  • Manju

    Wow this looks gorgeous. What a find on the fabric. Beautifully done.

    • Thank you very much Manju. The fabric really was the perfect match for the pattern. The insides are very heavily interfaced though. It was so lovely to work with such a wonderful pattern.

  • lulumiss

    Wow, amazing! The fit is so great and I’m loving this colour on you. Well done!

    • Thank you very much. Its very bright but I’m loving it too.

  • dibs

    Your coat is amazing. I want to make this in a wool crepe fabric. I hope it turns out as beautiful as yours. I am 1.60m so the adjustment regarding the length are particularly helpful. Thank you

    • Thank you very much! This would be amazing in wool crepe. I am sure it will turn out just lovely, its such a beautiful pattern, but it does seem drafted for a taller person, which I agree is helpful to know. Looking forward to seeing your version.

  • Beautiful coat – your sewing is impeccable and the fit is perfect on you. Good find at The Fabric Cave too – you never know what you may unearth there but you definitely found a gem

    • Thank you heaps Kristy. Actually as I was browsing I was wondering if I may have ended up with any of your pieces. This fabric was very good quality, not sure if it s a true linen though but definitely a gem. Most of the perfect fit on this is due to the beautiful shape of the pattern. I only tweaked it a tiny bit.

  • Sofie M

    Great investment – both pattern and fabric. Gorgeous. Must remember to go to that cave when I go to Sydney next.

    • Thank you. I highly recommend pattern and the Fabric Cave.

  • SeamsOddLouise.Blogspot.com

    This is beautiful, what a great job you have done.

    • Thank you very much. It was a pleasure to work with such a well drafted pattern for sure.

  • Great find from the fabric cave (I must try to get there again!) – you did a fantastic job with the linen – perfect ;o)

    • Thank you. It was a very serendipitous find as it was perfect for this pattern. I always mean to go there more often and never do, but it is a dangerous place, so many treasures to find.

  • ybennett

    Wow. Flawless production of a couture level garment. Beautiful garment which is timeless in style and looks beautiful ON you as well. Enjoy wearing you coat.

    • Thank you very much. It is very classic in style and Paco really knows how to do timeless elegance very well. I’m loving it – I just need the weather to warm up a bit to wear it.

  • Sew Little Time

    wow – this is really beautiful and colour is perfect on you!

    • Thank you! It is rather bright but I love it.

  • Lizzy

    This is stunning! The colour is lovely on you and it provides a beautiful silhouette

    • Thanks Lizzy! It is an excellent pattern, I’ve never sewn something up with such clean/perfect lines straight out of the envelope.

  • Oh wow, how beautiful is your new coat?! I have been wondering about a linen coat, does it crush? Figured it might be more Sydney weather appropriate. I will now check out your ‘notes’ on the bagged lining because that lower hem/facing corner still has me perplexed!

    • Thank you, I’m loving it too. Sadly it does crush. I think this is a linen blend of some kind so it doesn’t crush as much as I would have thought for 100% linen. Its a bit of a mystery fabric, all I know really is that it presses well and sewed up beautifully. It is definitely a spring coat as it is not very warm at all. The notes on bagging a lining show how to do that tricky corner so hopefully that can be of help – it refers to the Iconic Patterns instructions which are excellent and I’ve never seen it explained so well anywhere else. It is a bit mind bending until you have done it a few times. I’ve made a number of coats and I still have to refer to my notes every time I get to that part.

      • Will check Iconic’s tutorial too. I think Lena has very good technique and I hope some of it rubs off on me!

  • Paco Peralta

    Janelle, thank you very much for choosing my pattern. And thank you for your nice words about him. The coat is superb and you look gorgeous.!!

    • Thank you so very much, I really tried to do it justice and so happy it turned out so well. I am beyond thrilled that you think I did a good job, and I am already planning another version without the collar this time. It is so wonderful that you are sharing your patterns with the worldwide community of home sewers.

  • Roxy

    Precioso!!! Los detalles impecables!! Las prendas que presentas en tu blog son preciosas, gracias!!! Besos Roxy