OK friends, today the good stuff starts – cutting into your lovely coating fabric. I am posting this today so you have plenty of time over the weekend to get your fabric cut out and interfacing fused.
For those perhaps joining us now, we have covered:
Lena/Iconic Patterns – Pattern Hack! Patch Pockets plus tutorial for patch pockets
Matching interfacing to your fabric. (this post is important to make sure your interfacing is not too heavy for Jackie)
*Make sure you read all the pattern hack posts along with the post about Proportions – I ended up ditching all my lengthening plans due to this proportion issue.
If you have your Jackie sewing instruction book you will see that there are no cutting layout diagrams so you get to work out the best layout for you, your fabric and your Jackie size. Its like a giant jigsaw puzzle and it can be slightly different for everyone.
If you have a plaid, tartan or check fabric you will need to consider if you want to pattern match or not. I personally feel that the extra effort is well worth it. If you want some guidance on matching plaids you can’t go past this series from Sunni at A Fashionable Stitch.
Our pattern pieces include your main jacket pieces and facings, plus your lining pieces. Marked on your jacket pieces are the cutting lines for additional interfacing pieces.
Fashion Fabric, pieces 1 – 10
Be particularly careful if your fabric has a nap or directional print, to make sure all your pattern pieces are facing the same way.
Because of the asymmetrical opening, most of the pieces need to be cut on a single layer (cut one only) and facing the same way up (right side of fabric up and printed side of pattern piece up for your single pattern pieces). These are:
1. Right front
2. Front right facing
3. Front left facing
4. Left front
8. Back neck facing
10. Pocket bag
The following need to be cut on a double layer (or cut two identical pieces). If your fabric needs pattern matching it is better to cut them out on a single layer to ensure both pieces are the same. If you are cutting them on a double layer, then make sure your fabric is right sides together. If you are cutting them twice on a single layer, make sure you flip your pattern piece face down for the second one so you get both a left and right sleeve for example.
And only one needs to be cut on the fold:
5. Back on fold.
It is a good idea to layout all your pieces and plan before cutting.
I cut out all my pieces in a single layer, using my notches to help me pattern match. I laid out my pieces as I went, so I don’t have a layout to show you. Here is a work in progress shot:
When cutting out my sleeves I cut one, then flipped the cut out piece so it was right sides together and used it to cut the second sleeve identical to the first one:
When cutting out my collar, I trimmed 3.5cm off from the buttonhole side and moved it over to the other side like this:
Centre front opening collar adjustment to ensure notches in correct position
This was purely my lazy way of making sure my notches on my collar are in the correct position for my adjusted front pieces. The centre front opening is the only change I have kept after muslining my other changes and deciding that Lena’s way was better.
Interfacing, pieces 1 – 9
All your jacket pieces except #10 pocket bag needs to be either fully or partially interfaced. If you haven’t already read the interfacing posts make sure you check out Matching interfacing to your fabric. (this post is important to make sure your interfacing is not too heavy for Jackie)
So from your interfacing you need to cut out the following:
• Right and left fronts (1, 4)
• Right and left facings (2, 3)
• Back (5) (partially, as shown, follow the markings on your pattern piece)
• Sleeves (6) (partially, as shown, follow the markings on your pattern piece)
• Collar (7)
• Back neck facing (8)
• Welt (9)
Make sure you use a lightweight interfacing that maintains the drape of your fabric. We are not tailoring here, so you don’t use the same interfacing you would for a jacket. I ended up using McCalls SheerWeft Fusible from my local Spotlight store and it seems to be working well. The instructions recommend testing it first on a swatch, which is highly recommended.
When fusing your interfacing to your pattern pieces make sure you follow the directions and ensure a firm bond. I always use an organza pressing cloth. Make sure you use something so you don’t end up with glue all over your iron plate.
Fusing interfacing to fabric, especially when you are doing so many pieces takes a fair bit of time.
Lining, pieces 11 – 14
You can cut out your lining pieces now or do it later on when you are ready. I’m going to do mine later as I am all cut and fused out today.
I hope this helps and if you have any questions, just leave a comment!
You can find all the posts of the sewalong here.