One of the benefits of a ssllllllooooowwwwww sewalong is that there is plenty of time to get things just right. I noticed in the Jackie instructions, the designer specified not medium weight interfacing, but lightweight, so I asked for some more information about this, especially as in my post about interfacing I recommended a number of medium weight interfacing options (which is what is awesome about indi pattern companies – you can ask a question and will get an answer right from the source within often minutes, its just great customer service!).
Lena provided the following very helpful clarification:
want to change the hand of the fabric, I just needed to add a bit of
stability. The fabric I used was very soft and drapey, but heavy and
with time under its own weight it would deform. So mostly I used the
interfacing not to change the fabric, but to “hold it together” better.
It is much different from the tailored jacket sewing, when the goal is
to make the fabric to look more like a shell.”
This makes so much more sense to me and so I have edited my original interfacing post to clarify this. Your exisiting interfacing may still be perfect, it depends on your fabric.
But the new links to the lightweight interfacing options, which would be particularly important for your jacket fronts are:
For Australia –
Pitt Trading or The Fabric Store – Just ask for the professional
grade interfacing lightweight suitable for using with a raglan sleeve coat that you do not want to add any stiffness to or change the fabric and they will send you the right one.
Another excellent source for quality interfacing for Sydney is EM Greenfields,
which is a sewing supply wholesaler but they do sell by the metre to
the public. They ship to anywhere in the world and if you send an email to them detailing what you are after (a good quality lightweight woven fusible interfacing suitable for jackets/coats with drape) they will be happy to help out.
For the US readers –
Fashion Sewing Supply sells high quality professional weft interfacing. The lightweight interfacing I think would be suitable for our purposes for the jacket fronts is here.
Another recommended source is A Fashionable Stitch.
As I mentioned in my previous interfacing post: independent sewing companies that will be able
to offer you advice about your particular fabric and project and
recommend the best choice for you. It’s the kind of service that you
don’t find in the larger chain stores and why I try to buy from these
places. If you are not sure, phone before you order and have a chat, or
order a swatch and test it on your fabric to be sure you are happy
before placing your order.
There is still plenty of time to be sure you have the right interfacing – I actually used my medium weight one on a test jacket front and it was too stiff but my lightweight one was perfect so it pays to test a couple of options on a largish swatch and handle it a bit to see which one works best for your project. As mentioned above, your exisiting interfacing may still be perfect, it depends on your fabric. In my case I needed to go lighter than I originally thought to maintan the hand/drape of my fabric.
I hope this helps and if you have any questions, just leave a comment.
You can find all the posts of the sewalong here.