Jackie Coat Sewalong – Changing to a centre front opening and rounding the Collar

For my rounded collar points, I just used my french curve to draw a curve that I like and trimmed it.

Very easy.  I want a slightly different collar to my first Jackie, but still wanted the high collar – it is brilliantly warm in cold weather, and especially lovely with a soft coating. I may even wait until I am making the collar before making this adjustment – it is easy when an adjustment is just a trim/taking away fabric.  I can’t stick it back on if I change my mind mid-sew, I would have to recut a new collar piece.  In any case, this is the shape I am considering.

Next up: Changing the opening to centre front.  This is also very easy to do and is my last modification to my Jackie.  I love the pattern exactly as is, the asymmetric button closure looks lovely on my first Jackie but I am playing around with this version so I have two distinctly different coats in my wardrobe.

I laid the two front pattern pieces on top of each other and measured the difference in size. For simplicity I am using metric measurements for this post (even though I usually think in imperial).  the difference is 7 cm.  Half that is 3.5 cm (which I think is 1 3/8″).

You can see my pencil line on the photo above showing the new line.

On the Right Front pattern piece (#1) I trimmed off 3.5cm.  I also moved back the buttonholes 3.5cm to reposition them the correct amount back from the seam.

I actually checked my change by sticking the cut off piece onto the Left Front pattern piece:

When these pieces are mirrored on top of each other, they are now identical.  I will now cut 2 of this pattern piece rather than cutting one each of Right Front and Left Front. 

For the facing, I took my Right Facing pattern piece (#2) and folded back the same amount of 3.5cm.  I will now cut 2 of this pattern piece instead of cutting one each of the left facing and the right facing.

Everything else stays the same.

That is my final adjustment post.  I hope it is useful to others who may want to make similar changes.  That is what is great about a pattern with excellent “bones” – they become a stepping stone for design, and a great base for whole variety of looks in your me-made wardrobe.

You can view all the posts so far in the sewalong here.

  • Anne Elliot

    I made this alteration, too. I was astounded to see that no centre front (CF) was indicated on the pattern! All patterns should have that. I assumed the notch along the neck seam allowance and at the hem line was CF. That is what I used for my alteration.

    • Lol. I didn’t even notice that notch. I just made sure both my fronts were the same size. But that notch could be for centre front. Have you made your Jackie already?

      • Anne Elliot

        Having just received the pattern, I thought I would test it out. I am intending to make this jacket purely because of the raglan sleeves. So I’m in the middle of making a muslin from some old checked Indian cotton, the sort used for curtains but ran short, so one sleeve is in denim. Perhaps not pretty enough for Flickr :).

        • I’ve been making a muslin of some stiff old cotton, also not at all suitable for putting forever on the internet. The raglan sleeves are just a lovely fit on this pattern. After all my alterations ideas I blogged about doing I’ve taken everything nearly back to the original pattern. Thank goodness for muslins to check things first.

          • Anne Elliot

            I say, put your muslin of stiff old cotton on Flickr. I have :).

            Great the sleeve pattern is still a good fit in the new fabric. – I wonder where my thinking/plans will take me :).

  • Anne Elliot

    I made this alteration, too. I was astounded to see that no centre front (CF) was indicated on the pattern! All patterns should have that. I assumed the notch along the neck seam allowance and at the hem line was CF. That is what I used for my alteration.

  • Lol. I didn't even notice that notch but I think you are right. It is exactly 5/8" in from my cutting line. Have you made your coat already? I'd love to see it.

  • Anne Elliot

    Having just received the pattern, I thought I would test it out. I am intending to make this jacket purely because of the raglan sleeves. So I'm in the middle of making a muslin from some old checked Indian cotton, the sort used for curtains but ran short, so one sleeve is in denim. Perhaps not pretty enough for Flickr :).

  • I've been making a muslin of some stiff old cotton, also not at all suitable for putting forever on the internet. The raglan sleeves are just a lovely fit on this pattern. After all my alterations ideas I blogged about doing I've taken everything nearly back to the original pattern. Thank goodness for muslins to check things first.

  • Anne Elliot

    I say, put your muslin of stiff old cotton on Flickr. I have :).

    Great the sleeve pattern is still a great fit in the new fabric. – I wonder where my thinking/plans will take me :).