Lace Jacket – Converting a shawl collar to a notched collar

I made up Kwik Sew 3334 again,  this time in a really nice navy lace from Spotlight, which I also managed to sew wrong side out (that’s what happens when making the “which side is the right side” decision at 10pm at night in poor lighting).

I was rather over the shawl collar that comes with this pattern, mainly because of the seamline that falls right at the roll line.  It just doesn’t have the same fall/hang as a proper notched collar, even though of course the up side is it is much easier to sew.

So I decided to have a go at converting the pattern to one with a traditional notched collar.  As I was sewing with lace with a fair amount of body I decided not to underline or interface.  I have a RTW lace jacket that I have worn for years that is just the fashion fabric so I was confident it would be ok.

Kwik Sew 3334 with Notched Collar

Kwik Sew 3334 with Notched Collar

Kwik Sew 3334 with Notched Collar

Red Linen  Elisalex Bodice with Half Circle Skirt


Kwik Sew 3334.  This is the 4th time I’ve made this up.


A kinda spongey navy blue lace with no stretch. 




Modified the collar from a shawl collar to a notched collar.  My list of links that were useful in this process are:

Threads article on How to Sew a Notched Collar.
The great one from Pattern Scissors Cloth.
And this one to help me get a handle on what the modified pattern pieces needed to look like.

Then I used an old vintage pattern I already had as a guide to modify my pattern pieces and hoped for the best.  

Extra Techniques:

Nothing new. Working out what is the right side/wrong side of a fabric.  This discussion on Burdastyle was very useful as it showed the common misconception (which is the one I had) about the pinhole direction in the selvage. Basically, the right side is the one with the rough holes (the pin pricks pointing OUT) not the other way round. Smooth pin pricks = wrong side, bumpy pin pricks = right side.  So now I know. 

Other Notes on the Pattern:

It has been a rather interesting exercise to make up the same pattern in so many wildly different fabric types.  Anything to say about the pattern I’ve already said here.  Its a remarkably practical jacket and I’ve worn it rather alot since I made it – both “dressy” and also with jeans.

I have so many plans for sewing at the moment I am almost beside myself as what to start first.  In no particular order:

The Pauline Alice Ninot Jacket.  Yum.
A pencil skirt to go with the jacket.
A lady skater dress long sleeve.
A modified Burdastyle Lydia long sleeve. 
I really want to do the Marfy 1756 jacket currently being done over on A Challenging Sew.  I’ve even found the most amazing boucle fabric.
And of course, another Jackie Coat as part of the upcoming sewalong with Velosewer in July.

I’d better get cracking.