Deer and Doe Veste Pavot – The Pavot Coat

I’ve been wanting to make up this pattern for yonks and had the pattern in stash for over a year.  As I am really enjoying making outerwear/coats/jackets at the moment it seemed the perfect time it have a go at it.  First, here are a bunch a pictures and then I’ll talk details further down…

Pattern:


Deer and Doe Pavot, purchased direct.

Fabric: 

Black Cotton Twill with flannelette sheet as underlining and a butter soft vintage cotton lawn (inherited from my Great Aunty, who was herself an amazing seamstress of great talent and who had really awesome taste in fabric) for the lining.  The twill was also a gift from a friend of my mother, passed on from HER sister. Its fairly lightweight and creases alot but I don’t own a plain black jacket and as I had JUST enough for the pattern, I thought it would be fine for a first try to “practice” the pattern before I use one of my lovely inherited vintage wool coatings.

Notions:

Handpainted black wood 1.25″ buttons from Spotlight, $2 each and a small amount of interfacing.

Alterations:

I cut a 38 top (shoulders/bust) and graded to a 40 waist and waistband.  For the skirt section I graded from a 40 to a 42.  Grading across 3 sizes is pretty usual for me.  I did a small forward shoulder adjustment of about 1/4″ (much less than my usual) and also shaved off between 1/4″ and 3/8″ off the back armscye for my narrow small shoulders, which I did while I was fitting the sleeve.   I also sewed up the sleeve at a scant 1/4″ seam allowance at the top/bicep to give myself a little more room in the sleeve.  All up very few alterations and the fit on the jacket feels just right.

Extra Techniques: 

I underlined the body of the coat, but not the sleeves as they were feeling a little snug and I didn’t want extra bulk there.  I drafted a full lining.  I love the lining, it is the most beautiful vintage cotton.  I catched stitched the hem and some of the seam allowances to the underlining in a few areas where I wanted them to sit flat/stay put, but not everywhere as I was restraining myself as I was thinking “practice/muslin don’t get carried away with technique” at that stage. I understitched the back neck facing to help it sit flatter and also graded nearly all my seams as they were rather bulky. 

Some notes about buttonholes on the Pavot:

I did vertical buttonholes after some research and positioned the button holes and buttons using the information here (which states that “vertical buttonholes must be used when there is a center front band or placket.”, and I liked the sound of that) and this threads article.

Other notes on the pattern:

This pattern is beautifully drafted and fit me very well with very minor tweaking.  The pattern has very few notches which initially I thought would be a problem, but it wasn’t at all. Everything just fit together perfectly and lined up beautifully.  The instructions are now available in English and were well written and easy to follow, also I did a number of “extra” steps as I was using my fantastic tailoring book (Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket) for guidance through the whole process to get better finish.  I also used this book to help me draft a good lining.

I love this pattern, this is probably my favourite thing I have sewn for myself to date and I will certainly be making more.

Despite the very lightweight twill the flannelette underlining has made it surprisingly warm and I know I’ll be wearing this to death this autumn and for our mild Sydney winter.  It looks great with jeans or a dress.  By the way, the dress in the photo’s is an unblogged By Hand London Anna dress (pattern purchased from Sew Squirrel) in a rayon, here is a full shot of the dress here:

By Hand London Anna Dress
  • Sharon

    A perfect coat for our winter and a great idea to underline to make the twill behave. Love the lining!

    • Thanks Sharon. I’m a massive fan of underlining. It works miracles.

  • A perfect coat for our winter and a great idea to underline to make the twill behave. Love the lining!

  • A very lovely coat – and a good idea to interline for warmth.

  • A very lovely coat – and a good idea to interline for warmth.

  • Lovely! You look fantastic! It was worth waiting …

    • Oh thank you. I’m so glad I got around to it as well.

  • Lovely! You look fantastic! It was worth waiting …

  • Great jacket Janelle, the waistline seam is really flattering, and works really well with your pretty dress. Hope it gets cold enough soon so you can wear it!

    • Thanks Kristy. I’m still working on getting a professional finish but I’m getting there. This style works very well with fit and flare type dresses, of which I have many. And believe it or not I already wore it all day yesterday and it was perfect.

  • Great jacket Janelle, the waistline seam is really flattering, and works really well with your pretty dress. Hope it gets cold enough soon so you can wear it!

  • Lovely jacket and a great idea to interline with a flannelette sheet.

    • Thanks. The flanelette is working brilliantly. Just the right amount of warmth for a spring / early autumn jacket.

  • Lovely jacket and a great idea to interline with a flannelette sheet.

  • Yay you made it! It looks so lovely and makes me want to get my pink one out of the cupboard and fix the buttons. This style is spot on for you.

    • Kirsty I was totally inspired to make this because of your awesome pink version. So thank you!!

  • Yay you made it! It looks so lovely and makes me want to get my pink one out of the cupboard and fix the buttons. This style is spot on for you.

  • Gail

    So very pretty! I absolutely love the lining!

  • So very pretty! I absolutely love the lining!

  • MarrieB

    Gorgeous! The lining is so pretty!

    • Thanks! I keep wanting to flash people my lining….

  • Gorgeous! The lining is so pretty!

  • Very nice, looks well made. Love the buttons and lining, and the styling with the dress and boots.

    • Thank you. I like it best like that too.

  • Very nice, looks well made. Love the buttons and lining, and the styling with the dress and boots.

  • Melanie Y (Miss Piggy)

    I love this coat – such a great length! One of my sewing goals is to (one day) make myself a winter coat. Maybe in time for next winter?

    • Thanks. Its totally do-able. I recommend this pattern or the Jackie Coat by Lena (Iconic Patterns). Maria (Velosewer) and I are planning a sewalong for the Jackie Coat later on in the year, you should totally join us!

  • I love this coat – such a great length! One of my sewing goals is to (one day) make myself a winter coat. Maybe in time for next winter?

  • Thanks Sharon. I'm a massive fan of underlining. It works miracles.

  • Thanks so much!

  • Oh thank you. I'm so glad I got around to it as well.

  • Thanks! I keep wanting to flash people my lining….

  • Thank you. I like it best like that too.

  • Thanks. Its totally do-able. I recommend this pattern or the Jackie Coat by Lena (Iconic Patterns). Maria (Velosewer) and I are planning a sewalong for the Jackie Coat later on in the year, you should totally join us!

  • Kirsty I was totally inspired to make this because of your awesome pink version. So thank you!!

  • Sandra Julian

    Your blog is timely, I dug my Pavot out yesterday and was giving some thought to draft across multiple sizes to cater for my waist and hip being bigger than my bust. I love your jacket, I think it the best that I’ve seen so far. I think the lighter weight of the fabric has helped the skirt part flow and skim across the body rather than being quite a stiff A-line. I love your jacket which has given the inspiration needed to continue on with mine. Thanks

    • Oh thank you Sandra. That is very kind of you to say as there are some stunning Pavot’s out there. The flannelette is also very soft so added body without stiffness, plus I think the process grading up a size from waist to hip increased the curve there a little. I do agree that good fabric choice is vital to get this looking “right”. It does need some structure or it doesn’t look right either. It is a great pattern if you are across so many sizes like myself.

  • Sandra Julian

    Your blog is timely, I dug my Pavot out yesterday and was giving some thought to draft across multiple sizes to cater for my waist and hip being bigger than my bust. I love your jacket, I think it the best that I've seen so far. I think the lighter weight of the fabric has helped the skirt part flow and skim across the body rather than being quite a stiff A-line. I love your jacket which has given the inspiration needed to continue on with mine. Thanks

  • Oh thank you Sandra. That is very kind of you to say as there are some stunning Pavot's out there. The flannelette is also very soft so added body without stiffness, plus I think the process grading up a size from waist to hip increased the curve there a little. I do agree that good fabric choice is vital to get this looking "right". It does need some structure or it doesn't look right either. It is a great pattern if you are across so many sizes like myself.

  • Gorgeous. The (seemingly) simple pieces like this will always be a solid wardrobe staple! Love those buttons, and the fit is perfection. How amazing is adding just a little bit of flannelette? I underlined a winter dress in it once and it always surprises me how warm it is versus how warm it actually looks (which is not at all warm!).

  • Gorgeous. The (seemingly) simple pieces like this will always be a solid wardrobe staple! Love those buttons, and the fit is perfection. How amazing is adding just a little bit of flannelette? I underlined a winter dress in it once and it always surprises me how warm it is versus how warm it actually looks (which is not at all warm!).

  • You did a great job on this coat, Janelle, your confidence is growing and it shows!

  • You did a great job on this coat, Janelle, your confidence is growing and it shows!

  • Stunning make. Love that you underline and you can see the diffrence from the ones without.

  • Stunning make. Love that you underline and you can see the diffrence from the ones without.