Two new tops – a Hummingbird and a boat neck tee.

I’ve been doing the Hummingbird Sewalong this week and enjoying the social atmosphere over on the Flickr Group page.

The sewalong is for the latest Cake Patterns “Hummingbird” pattern, which is for a knit peplum top and a woven princess seamed skirt with an option for a back flounce or tailfeather.  HELLO!! You had me at “back flounce”.

So I’m working on the skirt at the moment but here is the first version of the peplum top, with my fitting notes to get the next version right:

The top is ok and looks good in this photo.  However, I cut the bodice at 16″ length – it’s WAYY too short and hits a good inch above my actual waist (you can see where my hand is sitting the seam is above it).  I did not have any fabric left to lengthen it (mainly because I had already cut out another tee in the same fabric) so I just went with it.  The versions I have seen that I like the waist actually sits at or just below the waistline and I think this works better for this type of peplum.

I took out just over an inch wedge in the back for a sway back adjustment but I could have taken a smidge more.  The fabric is a medium weight jersey labelled “Japanese Knit” from Spotlight on sale for I think $10/m.  I’m not that keen on the colour but I thought it would be ok for a first try.

From the side you can see the bodice is not quite snug enough for a good fit and also the front rides up – too short, too short.  You need to really zoom in on the photo but I also need to do a forward shoulder adjustment – the seamline is sitting at the back of my shoulders and needs constant readjustment when wearing.  The underarm wrinkles are also a bit more obvious in this photo. I need to lower the underarm curve by 1/2″ or more.

Cutting Notes

 

This version is a size 30 bodice, with a 28″ waist, length 16″, with a size 40 length and a wider cuff cut 1″ shorter than the width so it fits nice and snug on the arm.

Adjustment Notes

So adjustment list for self for next version is as follows:

  • Forward shoulder adjustment 1 cm / 3/8″
  • Sloping shoulder adjustment (already did this one and it needed it bad) 1 cm / 3/8″
  • Cut 18″ length (2″ longer than current)
  • Lower underarm curve 1″ to be safe
  • Sway back adjustment – start with 1″ and work from there.
  • Try in a more drapey/lightweight fabric

While I was working on the Hummingbird I also knocked together a modified BurdaStyle Lydia T-shirt using the Cabarita neckine for a boat neck and the Hummingbird binding technique/binding width for a narrow bound neckline and sleeve cuffs.

Its a baggy tee with elbow length sleeves (not enough fabric for full length) and the hemline is from the Scout Woven Tee pattern, which dips down in a flattering curve at the back.  It just adds to the casual everyday wardrobe.