Hummingbird Pink: 30s Skirt with back flounce

The Cake Patterns Hummingbird Sewalong is wrapping up tomorrow and its been so enjoyable to join in with sewing that pattern with everyone participating over on the Flickr Group page.

This pattern includes a knit top and woven skirt with a 1930s feel with a bias back flounce.  I was really pleased to find I could eek it out of the remnant left over from the Pavlova Circle Skirt I made earlier this year. 

Hello!!! back flounce.

The front is princess seamed with pockets.

The back flounce is a horseshoe shape and uses a lapped seam – much easier to do than I thought.

Cutting Notes

I cut a 40 hip skirt and a 28 waist – (the Cake Patterns sizing system means that you get to customise your waist/hip size).  I am roughly a 38-39″ hip but followed the recommendation to size up if in between sizes.

Construction Notes

I sewed all the front vertical seams at 5/8″ seam allowances (the actual seam allowance is 1/2″), everything else at the 1/2″ s.a.  For the side seams I did 1″ (or a smidge more) seam allowances which gave me a perfect fit.  This is the first skirt where I did not have to fiddle with the hip curve – the sizing system did all the work for me.  I also did not get the usual gaping at the back waist, it hugged my back curve like a dream.  As someone who usually has to fiddle a fair bit to get a good fit, its a huge reason why I like Cake Patterns so much.

I pegged all the seams in towards the hem a bit, probably 1/2″ at the sides and the two front princess seams bringing it in 2″ overall.

I underlined the flounce and lined the rest of the skirt with a pink lining from my stash, just acetate I think.  Here is a shot of the innards:

Top Left: Underlined Flounce with lace hem trim. 
Top Right: Back lining hem trimmed with lace
Bottom Left: Hem, ooohh, pretty!!
Bottom Right: Pocket bags attached at side and front seams for a secure fit.

I love how a glimpse of the lace hem and pink underlining can be seen in the flounce when I walk, and I love the feel of the lining.  The wool is a bit scratchy so it really makes a difference to the comfort of the skirt.

When cutting the lining I pinned the side front pieces together (top pocket and bottom) to give me one full piece:

I also did another Hummingbird top this time incorporating the fitting changes that I noted from my first version:

Much, much happier with this one.

I ended up making some significant adjustments to the top to accomodate my shape, I will do a separate post on that on how I adjusted for my small bust and small sloping forward shoulders, before I forget what I did.

As I didn’t have much fabric I used my trusty Tiramisu Peplum pieces instead of the Hummingbird 4-leaf clover circle peplum.  It was a bit of a shame but it worked out ok.

This fabric is a really silky drapey jersey in possibly rayon?? from my stash and I must say this top works much better with a very drapey knit, rather than a sturdy t-shirt type medium weight fabric, which is what I used for my first version.

Some more photos over on Flickr in my Hummingbird Set. (some of the fitting photos can only be seen by members of the Flickr Group).
 

  • Sofie M

    What a lovely outfit. The top is beautiful and that flounce looks perfect.

  • What a lovely outfit. The top is beautiful and that flounce looks perfect.

  • lulumiss

    Vavavoom! What a great fit you got on that skirt. That really s my favourite detail on that pattern. And yes, please share your fitting tips for the top.

    • Thanks alot. I posted my fitting tips tonight. Hope they are helpful (and not wrong!!)

  • Vavavoom! What a great fit you got on that skirt. That really s my favourite detail on that pattern. And yes, please share your fitting tips for the top.

  • Awesome fit!! It’s perfect!

  • Awesome fit!! It's perfect!

  • Love your skit. What a great fit.. and thanks for showing us it’s very beautiful innnards.

    • Oh thanks. The great fit is largely down to the beautifully drafted pattern – it really came together like a dream this skirt.

  • Love your skit. What a great fit.. and thanks for showing us it's very beautiful innnards.

  • Loving that skirt on you! The fit is perfect, and I love the choice of bright (pink?) zipper!

    • Thanks so much. The zipper was an accident as I originally was going to make this skirt in a hot pink, so thats the colour of the zip I had on hand. But I’m glad I used it.

  • Loving that skirt on you! The fit is perfect, and I love the choice of bright (pink?) zipper!

  • Gail

    Beautiful – inside and out!

    • Thank you – the insides are my favourite!

  • Beautiful – inside and out!

  • Oooh, flouncy!! I love this version of the Hummingbird, it’s all party in the back!! Lol. Looks great on you.

    • Tee hee. Its so true. Its all demure and then “hello!!”. I have to resist a wiggle when I walk. Thanks so much.

  • Oooh, flouncy!! I love this version of the Hummingbird, it's all party in the back!! Lol. Looks great on you.

  • Shar

    Your skirt is beautiful inside and out! I love the Pink version and really have to get around to making one. The top looks so pretty too and goes perfectly with the skirt. I’m interested in the changes you made since I also have a small bust and sloping shoulders.

    • Thanks Shar. I posted some detailed notes on the fitting issues just then. Both fabrics from stash so it was a double win.

  • Perfection! This is gorgeous and fits perfectly. Very nice indeedy.

  • Perfection! This is gorgeous and fits perfectly. Very nice indeedy.

  • I looorve your skirt fabric! It’s the softness of the colours for me – it’s just gorgeous! Love the plaid and the flounce on it. It’s great paired with the soft pink of your top 🙂

    • Thanks!!! I love it too. It was a surprisingly good internet purchase from fabric.com for about $4/m. I wasn’t expecting it to be so nice but its been a dream to sew and wear,

  • I looorve your skirt fabric! It's the softness of the colours for me – it's just gorgeous! Love the plaid and the flounce on it. It's great paired with the soft pink of your top 🙂

  • Thanks!!! I love it too. It was a surprisingly good internet purchase from fabric.com for about $4/m. I wasn't expecting it to be so nice but its been a dream to sew and wear,

  • Thank you!

  • Thanks Shar. I posted some detailed notes on the fitting issues just then. Both fabrics from stash so it was a double win.

  • Tee hee. Its so true. Its all demure and then "hello!!". I have to resist a wiggle when I walk. Thanks so much.

  • Thank you – the insides are my favourite!

  • Thanks so much. The zipper was an accident as I originally was going to make this skirt in a hot pink, so thats the colour of the zip I had on hand. But I'm glad I used it.

  • Oh thanks. The great fit is largely down to the beautifully drafted pattern – it really came together like a dream this skirt.

  • Thanks Shanni!

  • Thanks alot. I posted my fitting tips tonight. Hope they are helpful (and not wrong!!)

  • Thank you so much Sofie.

  • evesewcool

    It’s so nicely finished and the fit is amazing. Great skirt!

  • It's so nicely finished and the fit is amazing. Great skirt!

  • catherine from canada

    Starting to work on this skirt myself and can’t quite figure out the lining.
    It’s attached at the waistband, around the flounce’s lapped seam, and at the hem, is that right? How did you make sure that the lining was straight, not twisted or skewed before you attached it to the flounce outline? Did you hang it on a mannequin?
    In what order did you sew the lining to the skirt?

    • Hi Catherine. The lining is in two parts. The skirt section it is made as a traditional lining. It is attached at the waist only and hanging free, it is not attached to the flounce lapped seam at all. It is hanging loose and I just added an extra 1″ to that seam when cutting out the lining pieces so it covered the flounce seam and finished that edge with lace. I added a couple of chain ties at the top (I used 2″ lengths of hem lace that I hand sewed each end one end to the flounce seam at the top part of the flounce on the skirt and the other end to the corresponding point of the lining) to keep it in place but it is otherwise loose. The flounce I treated the lining as an underlining and attached the lining at the very beginning and treated the two layers as a single piece. This seemed to give me the best “hang” and stopped the lining from pulling the flounce askew while wearing, especially while sitting. The order was flounce underlining – attach flounce – attach lining to waistband, then I finished the hem in two stages. The flounce was hemmed when I hemmed the skirt. The skirt lining I hemmed separately about 1.5″ shorter than the skirt.

      The other way I would probably do this lining is make the lining the same as the skirt (without the pockets) and attach all at the waist, but I like the glimpse of pink and lace I get from underlining the flounce plus I think it helps it drape nicely.

      Hope this helps. All the best with your skirt.

      • catherine from canada

        Chain ties! That’ll do it! Thanks for your answer and advice.

  • Starting to work on this skirt myself and can't quite figure out the lining.
    It's attached at the waistband, around the flounce's lapped seam, and at the hem, is that right? How did you make sure that the lining was straight, not twisted or skewed before you attached it to the flounce outline? Did you hang it on a mannequin?
    In what order did you sew the lining to the skirt?

  • Hi Catherine. The lining is in two parts. The skirt section it is made as a traditional lining. It is attached at the waist only and hanging free, it is not attached to the flounce lapped seam at all. It is hanging loose and I just added an extra 1" to that seam when cutting out the lining pieces so it covered the flounce seam and finished that edge with lace. I added a couple of chain ties at the top (I used 2" lengths of hem lace that I hand sewed each end one end to the flounce seam at the top part of the flounce on the skirt and the other end to the corresponding point of the lining) to keep it in place but it is otherwise loose. The flounce I treated the lining as an underlining and attached the lining at the very beginning and treated the two layers as a single piece. This seemed to give me the best "hang" and stopped the lining from pulling the flounce askew while wearing, especially while sitting. The order was flounce underlining – attach flounce – attach lining to waistband, then I finished the hem in two stages. The flounce was hemmed when I hemmed the skirt. The skirt lining I hemmed separately about 1.5" shorter than the skirt.

    The other way I would probably do this lining is make the lining the same as the skirt (without the pockets) and attach all at the waist, but I like the glimpse of pink and lace I get from underlining the flounce plus I think it helps it drape nicely.

    Hope this helps. All the best with your skirt.