Hummingbird Pink: 30s Skirt with back flounce

The Cake Patterns Hummingbird Sewalong is wrapping up tomorrow and its been so enjoyable to join in with sewing that pattern with everyone participating over on the Flickr Group page.

This pattern includes a knit top and woven skirt with a 1930s feel with a bias back flounce.  I was really pleased to find I could eek it out of the remnant left over from the Pavlova Circle Skirt I made earlier this year. 

Hello!!! back flounce.

The front is princess seamed with pockets.

The back flounce is a horseshoe shape and uses a lapped seam – much easier to do than I thought.

Cutting Notes

I cut a 40 hip skirt and a 28 waist – (the Cake Patterns sizing system means that you get to customise your waist/hip size).  I am roughly a 38-39″ hip but followed the recommendation to size up if in between sizes.

Construction Notes

I sewed all the front vertical seams at 5/8″ seam allowances (the actual seam allowance is 1/2″), everything else at the 1/2″ s.a.  For the side seams I did 1″ (or a smidge more) seam allowances which gave me a perfect fit.  This is the first skirt where I did not have to fiddle with the hip curve – the sizing system did all the work for me.  I also did not get the usual gaping at the back waist, it hugged my back curve like a dream.  As someone who usually has to fiddle a fair bit to get a good fit, its a huge reason why I like Cake Patterns so much.

I pegged all the seams in towards the hem a bit, probably 1/2″ at the sides and the two front princess seams bringing it in 2″ overall.

I underlined the flounce and lined the rest of the skirt with a pink lining from my stash, just acetate I think.  Here is a shot of the innards:

Top Left: Underlined Flounce with lace hem trim. 
Top Right: Back lining hem trimmed with lace
Bottom Left: Hem, ooohh, pretty!!
Bottom Right: Pocket bags attached at side and front seams for a secure fit.

I love how a glimpse of the lace hem and pink underlining can be seen in the flounce when I walk, and I love the feel of the lining.  The wool is a bit scratchy so it really makes a difference to the comfort of the skirt.

When cutting the lining I pinned the side front pieces together (top pocket and bottom) to give me one full piece:

I also did another Hummingbird top this time incorporating the fitting changes that I noted from my first version:

Much, much happier with this one.

I ended up making some significant adjustments to the top to accomodate my shape, I will do a separate post on that on how I adjusted for my small bust and small sloping forward shoulders, before I forget what I did.

As I didn’t have much fabric I used my trusty Tiramisu Peplum pieces instead of the Hummingbird 4-leaf clover circle peplum.  It was a bit of a shame but it worked out ok.

This fabric is a really silky drapey jersey in possibly rayon?? from my stash and I must say this top works much better with a very drapey knit, rather than a sturdy t-shirt type medium weight fabric, which is what I used for my first version.

Some more photos over on Flickr in my Hummingbird Set. (some of the fitting photos can only be seen by members of the Flickr Group).