This pattern includes a knit top and woven skirt with a 1930s feel with a bias back flounce. I was really pleased to find I could eek it out of the remnant left over from the Pavlova Circle Skirt I made earlier this year.
Hello!!! back flounce.
The front is princess seamed with pockets.
The back flounce is a horseshoe shape and uses a lapped seam – much easier to do than I thought.
I cut a 40 hip skirt and a 28 waist – (the Cake Patterns sizing system means that you get to customise your waist/hip size). I am roughly a 38-39″ hip but followed the recommendation to size up if in between sizes.
I sewed all the front vertical seams at 5/8″ seam allowances (the actual seam allowance is 1/2″), everything else at the 1/2″ s.a. For the side seams I did 1″ (or a smidge more) seam allowances which gave me a perfect fit. This is the first skirt where I did not have to fiddle with the hip curve – the sizing system did all the work for me. I also did not get the usual gaping at the back waist, it hugged my back curve like a dream. As someone who usually has to fiddle a fair bit to get a good fit, its a huge reason why I like Cake Patterns so much.
I pegged all the seams in towards the hem a bit, probably 1/2″ at the sides and the two front princess seams bringing it in 2″ overall.
I underlined the flounce and lined the rest of the skirt with a pink lining from my stash, just acetate I think. Here is a shot of the innards:
|Top Left: Underlined Flounce with lace hem trim.
Top Right: Back lining hem trimmed with lace
Bottom Left: Hem, ooohh, pretty!!
Bottom Right: Pocket bags attached at side and front seams for a secure fit.
I love how a glimpse of the lace hem and pink underlining can be seen in the flounce when I walk, and I love the feel of the lining. The wool is a bit scratchy so it really makes a difference to the comfort of the skirt.
When cutting the lining I pinned the side front pieces together (top pocket and bottom) to give me one full piece:
I also did another Hummingbird top this time incorporating the fitting changes that I noted from my first version:
Much, much happier with this one.
I ended up making some significant adjustments to the top to accomodate my shape, I will do a separate post on that on how I adjusted for my small bust and small sloping forward shoulders, before I forget what I did.
As I didn’t have much fabric I used my trusty Tiramisu Peplum pieces instead of the Hummingbird 4-leaf clover circle peplum. It was a bit of a shame but it worked out ok.
This fabric is a really silky drapey jersey in possibly rayon?? from my stash and I must say this top works much better with a very drapey knit, rather than a sturdy t-shirt type medium weight fabric, which is what I used for my first version.