Springtime Jasmine Blouse

Continuing on my Colette Patterns lovefest I made the Jasmine Blouse this week using a lovely lightweight cotton voile (Spotlight, of course, the only fabric shop I have been able to get to in months).

Anyway, feeling confident after making the blue Peony I decided to ditch the muslin and go right ahead, and I made the following adjustments before cutting out the pattern:

  • Small Bust Adjustment (lapped lines 3/8″/9mm)
  • Moved bust darts, determined placement by holding up tissue pattern to front.
  • Forward shoulder adjustment of 3/8″ (smidge under 1cm) for shoulder seams and then the sleeve. 
  • Narrow shoulder adjustment using the method from the Colette website.
  • Cut a straight size 2.  I usually grade out in the hips but didn’t need to do this for this pattern.
  • Cut a size 6 sleeve cuff as it seemed a bit tight otherwise.
I love the sleeves, glad I made the cuffs a bit looser.

 Once I had the pattern cut out I pinned together and based on that made the following further adjustments:

  •  Trimmed off a bit from both front and back centre seams at top to remove gape at front and back neck. I think I took off a good 1/2″/1cm, tapering down to nothing just past the bust darts.
  • Added some back neck darts as well.
  • Adjusted the curve at the back of the sleeve, shaving off a bit more (more forward shoulder stuff going on there).  I seem to need the back curve of the sleeve to be quite “flat” to fit my shape.
  • Recut a new sleeve cuff in a size 10 to get a more comfortable fit.

Whew, seems like alot of adjustments but all that is fairly typical for me.

The bias cut and back seam gives a perfect fit.  No sway back alteration needed.

I’m glad I left the cutting out of the neck facings and collar until after I had the body all sewn together so I could transfer the final adjustments to these pieces.

I now have a TNT blouse pattern that fits me great.  I love the beautiful drape and bias cut of the blouse.  The collar sits beautifully and I really liked the way the collar and facings are attached.  Normally I am not a fan of facings but in this case they worked beautifully.

So the firsts for me for this pattern are:

  • First time sewing a bias garment.
  • First SBA (which resulted in a great fit)
Side view, Colette Jasmine.  The forward shoulder adjustment
made a HUGE difference to the comfort and fit. 

Am planning a couple more of these in some voile fabric for summer, including a sleeveless version, which I think will be really cute.

Next up: Colette Juniper Pants, in a black cotton sateen (so far looking great), Simplicity 1872 (I’m really excited about that one, its my first chiffon project) and a New Look 6808 in a cotton lace.